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Thank you for setting me strait on this point. I was under the impression they used a splitter box like ones used for co-axle cable for your tv and set it in the attic space.
Perhaps in a perfect world maybe.
On Tue, 19 Nov 2013, Daniel Robinson wrote:
Have you checked the rear of the socket? I was under the impression with
these modern homes that the splitting is done elsewhere and so all sockets
are a master? Could be wrong but maybe worth checking.
In a modern installation (ie. something newer than about 25 years) you only have one master socket.
The slightly more modern way to run extensions is to connect them to the faceplate that goes on the BT master socket of the newer type with the split faceplate. (aka the NTE5). That way, you remove the faceplate and immediatly disconnect *all* internal house wiring, leaving the BT test socket open. This is the best way to do line tests and the best way to run your internal wiring.
You can also connect an ADSL modem directly to the test socket - no filter required - this will give you the best possible connection, but no provision for phones, etc.
The master socket does 3 things: It provides an over voltage suppression, a "ring" signal to the rest of the house phones - in older days this was used to "tinkle suppression" on phones with bells in them, but isn't needed on modern phones. This can cause ADSL interference, so the new "iPlate" isolates it.
The final thing it does is to provide a continuity loop back to the exchange - this is so that the exchange doesn't get upset when you unplug all phones and allows for remote testing and monitoring. (Which BT do)
The best way IMO to wire up your ADSL modem is to replace the split front plate with a plate with integrated filter and run all your house phones off that filtered side - that way, no additional filters are needed anywhere in the house and the modem plugs directly into the faceplate.
I use these:
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